Uschipci: Balkan Barbecue, Grilled Cheese-Stuffed Patties

Uschipci: Balkan Barbecue

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Some time ago, quite unexpectedly, I discovered a new meat dish in Bulgaria: ground meat cooked on the grill. The place called itself “Sarbska Skara”. It looked rather plain, but the food was wonderful. Most of the names were unfamiliar to me, but I was sold right away when they recommended the uschipci, baked cheese-stuffed patties, with the line “nobody makes them like we do”.

I read somewhere that Serbian cuisine has elements of Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Turkish cooking, as well as Central European cuisines. All of it comes with the usual adjustments for national traditions and for historical and cultural ties. Next to typically Eastern kebabs and pilaf, mamaliga and burek (fried dough), you find pastries and cakes that are typical of Europe.

Meat dishes are mostly made from pork, lamb and goat. Dishes made from specially soured milk, a very thick kind of yogurt, are very popular. It often goes into delicious appetizers, such as the Bulgarian milk salad. Serbian cuisine is known for dishes like pljeskavica, cevapcici and vesalica. Many people have surely come across them, and not necessarily in Serbia.

Surprisingly, most of the dishes are similar to Bulgarian ones, even though they have different names and are cooked with different spices. Still, as I understood it, spices and aromatic herbs are used in very small amounts in Serbian cooking. Cooks usually limit themselves to black pepper and paprika, and parsley for greens. Bulgarian cuisine, on the other hand, is rich in aromatic herbs and spices, the main one of which is, of course, savory (chubritsa), even in lyulya kebab with cheese.

Serbian Leskovac uschipci are a rather spicy dish of ground meat with cheese and hot pepper, grilled on a skara (grill). They resemble baked cheese-stuffed patties. They say Serbian meat dishes must be cooked over fire so the juices do not run out. Otherwise the meat just boils, and the taste of the dish changes beyond recognition.

You can find many versions of how to make uschipci. Most of them seem to be the authors’ own fantasies with potatoes, fried onion, herbs, beans, eggs and heaven knows what else. I won’t judge which is right, but to my taste, Leskovac uschipci are meat, soft cheese and hot pepper with a minimum of spices and additions. That is how they were first made for me, that is how I remember them, and that is how I came to love them. And one more thing: the essential accompaniment when serving the finished dish is lutenitsa made from peppers and tomatoes. It is an unbeatable combination.

Ingredients

4 servings (about 20 pieces)

  • For the ground meat
  • Veal 300 g
  • Pork 200 g
  • Smoked bacon or salo 100 g
  • Semi-hard cheese (kashkaval, Gouda, Edam) 100 g
  • Hot red or green pepper 1 pod
  • Garlic 1 clove
  • Ground paprika 0.5 tsp
  • Salt, black pepper to taste
  • For grilling and serving
  • Fat for greasing the grill a little
  • Lutenitsa, onion, hot pepper, herbs, tomatoes for serving

Step-by-step recipe

Ground meat

  1. For uschipci you need lean pork, veal and smoked bacon or salo. The meat must not be tough, or it will be hard and unpleasant in the finished dish. Smoked bacon or smoked salo gives the dish that wonderful aroma and flavor I remembered so well. The ratio of veal to pork should be about 4:3, plus one part smoked bacon.

    Use the same amount of cheese as bacon. Kashkaval is usually used, but for home cooking, readily available Gouda or Edam works perfectly well.

  2. Grind the meat. Trim off the membranes and any bone fragments.

    Meat and pepper.

    Grind the raw meat through a meat grinder into a bowl.

    Ground meat.
  3. Chop the pepper, bacon, cheese and garlic. Remove the seeds and the white inner membranes from the hot red or green pepper pod. Chop the pepper quite finely, into small cubes or very thin strips. Cut the bacon or salo into small cubes. Cut the cheese into small cubes. Peel the garlic clove and chop it finely with a knife.

  4. Mix the ground meat and chill it. In a bowl, combine the ground pork and veal, then add the chopped bacon and cheese, the pepper and the garlic, and salt lightly. Season with ground black pepper and add 0.5 tsp ground paprika.

    Mixing the ground meat.

    Knead the ground meat thoroughly by hand so that all the ingredients are evenly distributed and combined. Cover the mixture with a plate or plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 mins.

    Finished ground meat.

Grilling

  1. A charcoal grill with glowing coals is the ideal, of course. But an electric grill rack will do the job well, and so will a grill pan if you cook at home in the kitchen. In the national cuisines, the gratar is widely used: a very heavy iron grate or plate set over very hot hardwood coals.

  2. Heat the grill as hot as you can. This matters: any grill must be as hot as possible, otherwise the ground meat will release juices while cooking and those juices will boil the meat. Heat a grill pan over high heat.

  3. Shape the uschipci by pinching off bits of the meat with your fingers. The word uschipci most likely comes from the way the pieces are formed: pinching off the meat. You can vary the size of the pieces quite widely to suit yourself. But keep in mind that they cook over high heat, and very large pieces may not cook through before the surface starts to burn.

    Shaping small pieces.

    This amount of ingredients makes about 20 pieces, each weighing about 35 g.

  4. Grill the uschipci on a greased grill for 4-5 mins per side. Place the raw pieces on a very hot grill greased with a little fat. Alternatively, you can thread pieces of the firm meat mixture onto thin skewers. This is convenient and guarantees good browning of the surface and even cooking.

    Placing on the grill.

    The surface of the pieces browns nicely, the cheese in the meat melts, and the smell of smoked bacon tickles your nose. If the inside seems slightly underdone, you can briefly turn the pieces onto the side that has not touched the grill. Finished uschipci are not pink when cut, and the juices run clear.

    Grilling until browned.

Serving

  1. Often, especially in restaurants, the side dish is French fries with a little tomato sauce or ketchup. But to my taste, fresh vegetables go best with charcoal-grilled meat.

  2. Put the uschipci on a plate with the side dish. While the uschipci cook, prepare the serving plate and the sides: herbs, ripe tomatoes, lettuce, onion and Bulgarian lutenitsa, which is easy to make from red bell pepper and ripe tomatoes, or else ketchup, but only a good one.

    Placing the meat and sides.
  3. Add hot pepper, bread and wine. Since uschipci are slightly spicy and piquant, I recommend adding a hot pepper pod to the sides, cut into rings or strips. Plain fresh bread will not hurt, and of course a glass of young wine: baked cheese-stuffed patties taste best with it.

    uschipci

Calories and macros

420 kcal

Serving ≈ 130 g

  • Protein33 g32% of kcal
  • Fat30 g67% of kcal
  • Carbs1 g1% of kcal

100 g329 kcalProtein 26 gFat 23.9 gCarbs 1 g

Calculated from the recipe ingredients, excluding salt and spices. Data: USDA and Matvaretabellen.

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