Fish Under Marinade: Fried Hake with Carrot, Onion and Tomato

Fish in Marinade

☆ 4.4

I remember when I first started living on my own, the “fish days” at the factory canteen annoyed me a little, because I wanted meat. Still, I actually liked the fish under marinade. It’s an amazingly simple and affordable dish that’s made not in individual portions but in big trays. There’s plenty of vegetables and fish in it. The important thing is that the cooks don’t go overboard with the marinade.

The so-called “Soviet” fish days had nothing to do with the Orthodox fasting days, when meat was replaced with fish; it was simply that on Thursdays there was no point looking for meat in public canteens. As usual, to keep workers supplied with protein amid falling production, it was decided to provide everyone with affordable protein, which was easier in principle, though the workers weren’t exactly thrilled.

When cooking in bulk for canteens, it was hard to make individual fish dishes like fish cakes or baked mackerel, so the focus was on one big uniform dish that was divided into portions when served. Fish under marinade was perfect for this. It could be made with cheap seafood, affordable vegetables like carrots and onions, cheap tomato paste and sunflower oil.

I often remember the huge trays (or were they sheet pans?) with an even layer of fried hake or pollock, covered with a “coat” of fried vegetables with tomato and a vinegar dressing. Most likely it was prepared the day before or early in the morning, so that at lunchtime everyone could get a portion with mashed potatoes. It was a kind of lottery: you could get a lot of fish on your plate or very little, since the dish was portioned out by eye.

Almost any fish without lots of small bones will do. Of the affordable kinds, hake, pollock and cod. Of the pricier ones, pink salmon or salmon. Although recipes mostly mention hake, carp works perfectly well too.

The cooking comes down to frying pieces of fish or small whole fish dredged in ordinary flour. They’re fried until fully cooked, since they won’t be cooked again. Onions and carrots are fried separately, then mixed with tomato paste and spices and stewed, and vinegar is added. The vegetables and fried fish are layered in a tray along with the marinade. A key step is resting and chilling, usually a few hours or overnight.

Fish under marinade, a tradition of Soviet fish days. Made from fried hake or pollock fillets with a marinade of vegetables fried with tomato.

Ingredients

4 servings

  • For the fish
  • Hake or pollock fillet 0.5 kg
  • Wheat flour 1 tbsp (10 g)
  • Salt, black pepper to taste
  • For the marinade
  • Onions 1–2
  • Carrots 2–3
  • Vegetable oil 50 ml
  • Tomato paste 2 tbsp (33 g)
  • Distilled vinegar 9% 1–2 tbsp (to taste)
  • Water ½ cup (100 ml)
  • Bay leaves 1–2
  • Allspice berries 2–3
  • For serving
  • Potatoes for mashing

Step-by-step recipe

Frying the fish

  1. I prefer to use fillets, and I always remove the skin because I don’t like it. Soviet cooks didn’t pay attention to such details, though.

  2. Prepare the fish. If the fish was frozen, move it from the freezer to the fridge ahead of time. Carefully cut off the fillets, discarding any bones you find. You’ll need juicy carrots and large onions for this dish.

    Fish fillets and vegetables for the marinade.
  3. Cut the fillets into large pieces, about the size of a matchbox. That way the finished dish will be easier to divide into portions. Season the pieces with salt and pepper. Dredge the fish well in flour, then put it on a plate. Pour half the vegetable oil into a frying pan and fry the fish until golden.

    Fried hake.

    If the pieces are still a bit raw inside, turn down the heat, cover the pan and cook the hake or pollock through.

  4. You’ll need a baking dish big enough for all the pieces to cover the bottom completely. Lay the pieces in a single layer with a little space between them.

    Dish for marinating.

Vegetable marinade

  1. Peel the onions and carrots. Dice the onions, not too large. Coarsely grate the carrots. Pour the rest of the unused oil into the pan with the oil left from frying the fish. Fry the onion in the oil until soft. It should turn lightly golden; that’s when it gets a pleasant sweetish taste.

    Fried onion.
  2. Add the grated carrot. Fry the vegetables until the oil starts turning slightly orange from the carrot. Add the tomato paste, season with salt and pepper, and add 1–2 bay leaves and 2–3 allspice berries. Stir the vegetables and spices well and fry for 3–4 minutes, stirring constantly.

    Stewed vegetables.
  3. In a cup, mix half a cup of water (100 ml) with the vinegar. Go carefully with the vinegar: it’s the main flavor of the dish. Too much acid and the fish will be inedible. As a rule, stores sell 9% distilled vinegar. For this amount of ingredients, 1–2 tbsp is enough. See for yourself; it’s all to taste. Pour the water and vinegar into the vegetables and stir. As soon as the liquid starts to boil, turn down the heat and stew the vegetables until soft. This usually takes 25–30 minutes.

    Vegetable marinade.

    The vegetables will absorb all the liquid, and there’ll be almost none left in the pan.

Assembling and chilling

  1. Remove the bay leaves and allspice. Spoon all the vegetables over the fish, pressing lightly and smoothing the top. If there’s a little liquid left in the pan, pour it over the vegetables.

    Fish covered with vegetables.
  2. Let it cool a little. Cover the dish with plastic wrap or a lid and put it in the fridge. 3–4 hours is enough, but it’s better to let the fish sit in the cold overnight. The vegetable marinade will soak into the fish and make it juicy and tasty. But, once again, don’t overdo the vinegar.

    Fish soaking in the marinade.

Serving

  1. Soft mashed potatoes are the ideal side. That’s how I like it best, a perfect combination of flavors.

  2. With a spoon or spatula, cut the fish and vegetables into portions right in the dish. Put mashed potatoes on a plate and sprinkle with pepper. Add some herbs if you like. Add 2–3 pieces of the fish under marinade, trying to keep the layers intact.

    Fish under marinade

    Serve right away, while the mashed potatoes are still hot.

    You can add nutmeg and coriander seeds to the vegetables while cooking, though that was hardly done back then, since those spices were hard to come by. Nowadays bell peppers and ripe tomatoes are sometimes added to the vegetables, and fish stock is used instead of water.

Calories and macros

265 kcal

Serving ≈ 200 g

  • Protein24 g38% of kcal
  • Fat13 g47% of kcal
  • Carbs9 g15% of kcal

100 g134 kcalProtein 12.2 gFat 6.7 gCarbs 4.7 g

Calculated from the recipe ingredients, excluding salt and spices. Data: USDA and Matvaretabellen.

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To Get It Right

If the skin won’t come off

No problem: for fish under marinade, hake just needs to be scaled. I don’t like the skin and remove it, but Soviet cooks didn’t pay attention to such details.

If the fish has small bones

Some readers make fish under marinade in a pot: they stew it in the vinegar marinade for 2–3 hours so the small bones soften.

How long it keeps

Keep fish under marinade in the covered dish in the fridge for up to 2 days. Serve portions straight from the dish, trying to keep the layers intact.

Have your own trick for this recipe?

Questions and answers

How do you make Soviet-style fish under marinade in a skillet?

Just like in this recipe: the floured fish is fried in a skillet until cooked through, the onion and carrot are fried with tomato in the same skillet and stewed with vinegar, then everything is layered in a dish and chilled. That’s how canteens made it, in big trays.

Can you make fish under marinade in the oven?

You can bake the fish instead of frying it: put the floured pieces in an oiled dish and bake at 200 °C for 15–20 minutes, then cover with the marinade. But in the classic recipe the fish is fried; with a golden crust it tastes better.

What fish is best for fish under marinade?

Almost any fish without lots of small bones: hake, pollock, cod. Among pricier options, pink salmon or salmon, and carp works well too.

Do you need to add sugar to the marinade?

No. The sweetish taste comes from the onion fried until golden.

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